They honor the memory of Karl Lagerfeld, the giant and prolific talent who. Nope, he was off to the atelier, where he would spend the afternoon fitting his next ready-to-wear collection. Editor’s note: Vogue Runway is closing out the decade by adding six archival Chanel shows to our collections archive. Models emerge from inside wooden sculptures created by artist Xavier Veilhan. Not that Karl would ever allow himself a moment to reflect on such things-or even to savor his triumph. Trust Karl Lagerfeld to rise above the cacophony of questions about the relevance of haute couture. Inspired by the mythical animal sculptures inside Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon, in Paris, the Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard reveals embroideries of exquisite lightness. And surely there is nothing that induces melancholia like the transience of beauty. "There's nothing more elegant than a certain kind of melancholia," Lagerfeld mused. Hair and makeup featured feathery effects, as though the models were birds in the woods, but a Miss Havisham quality crept in toward the end, as the feathers settled over shoulders and trailed behind dresses. " Art de vivre, not joie de vivre, " Lagerfeld agreed.
This wasn't so much one for the Karlettes, Lagerfeld's coterie of young female fans. Anything that looked like a print was actually embroidery-the man-hours involved in such technical feats clearly involved rigors of another kind.īeautiful as the collection was-and ending as it did with two brides, the designer's poke at the gay-marriage controversy currently roiling France-its most striking feature was its melancholic mood.
Weimar was also the birthplace of the Bauhaus, and there was something of that design movement's rigor in long, lean evening columns.
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